Border Model 1:350 Kongo is a modern injection-molded kit of the Japanese fast battleship from a new mold. The finished model measures around 61 cm and the package also holds photo-etch and 3D printed parts.
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An injection-molded plastic kit of the Japanese fast battleship Kongo in 1:350 from the manufacturer Border Model. It is a new mold from a modern manufacturer, not a reboxed old kit. The hull is molded in one piece using outer and inner slide molds, with hatches, welds and rivets rendered. Besides the plastic the package contains photo-etched parts, 3D printed parts (among them barrel sleeves for two forms) and metal gun barrels, plus decals. The finished model measures roughly 61 cm, so even in the standard ship scale of 1:350 a respectable piece results, for which a long display case has to be reckoned with.
Kongo was the lead ship of her class and the only Japanese capital ship built abroad; she was built in Britain, where she was launched in 1912 as a battlecruiser. In the thirties the Imperial Japanese Navy put her through an extensive reconstruction, after which she was reclassified among the fast battleships; as the only Japanese battleship she could exceed 30 knots, which made her an ideal escort for fast forces. She went through practically the whole war in the Pacific, including the fighting off Guadalcanal and in Leyte Gulf. In November 1944 she was sunk by an American submarine.
With ships the main work lies elsewhere than with aircraft: the superstructure, the armament, the cranes, the boats and the rigging are hundreds of small parts that call for patience and tweezers. Decide right at the start whether you will build the model with the full hull on a stand or set it into the surface of the water (a diorama), because it determines the procedure as well as the painting of the underwater part. Spray the underwater part and the sides of the hull before you close the decks up, as the masking is then much easier. Glue the photo-etch (railings, ladders, radars) onto the fully painted ship with cyanoacrylate glue; it is best to paint them while still on the fret. The metal barrels only need degreasing and toning. The rigging is done at the end from drawn sprue or elastic thread. For weathering a restrained wash into the recesses and fine rust streaks are quite enough; overdone weathering on ships quickly looks unconvincing.
The model is supplied unassembled and unpainted. Glue, paints and accessories are not included in the package, unless stated otherwise.
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