Rust & Chipping Effects

From the base to chipped paint

Worn paint and the rust underneath it are not two separate effects but the end of one procedure. First the model needs the tone that will show through under the chipped paint, then the layer that makes the chipping possible, and only then the top coat that is worked into. This line-up is put together exactly in that order, which is what sets it apart from ordinary sets of shades.

The package holds eight bottles of seventeen milliliters each, and they are not just paints.

• The undercoat tone - a red-brown shade that serves as a filling base under the further layers.
• Rust in stages - four steps from dark brown through rusty and light to orange allow the age of the corrosion to be graded.
• Ocher - brightens the freshest spots and suits deposits.
• The chipping medium - it goes between the undercoat and the top color, and once moistened the top layer can be broken up.
• Matte varnish - seals the finished work and evens out differences in sheen.

The procedure is therefore closed from start to finish; all you need to add is a brush, water and a pointed toothpick or a stiff bristle brush to break the layer up. Work in small areas, because the medium reacts quickly and a large expanse cannot be handled all at once. The result is more convincing when the chipped spots are concentrated where the crew steps on the real machine or where equipment rubs against the armor.