CMK 1:35 — exhaust for the UH-1B Huey (the Trumpeter kit). It is not a helicopter kit but a replacement part: a one-piece open nozzle with none of the ejector pin marks that spoil the plastic original.
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Please note: this is NOT a helicopter kit. It is a replacement detail part from the Czech maker CMK in 1:35 scale, intended for the UH-1B Huey kit from Trumpeter. The exhaust is made by modern 3D printing as a single piece — so there is nothing to assemble from several parts, and above all it carries none of the unsightly ejector pin marks that usually mar the plastic nozzle from a kit exactly where they can be seen.
An injection mold simply cannot cast a narrow, deep, through-going tube — which is why the exhaust in a kit tends to be thick-walled and blanked off. A printed nozzle is by contrast thin-walled and open, so you really can look inside. That matters for one practical reason: the exhaust on a Huey is exceptionally well seen — it sits high on the side of the fuselage — and it is the first place where every modeler starts weathering. Soot, dark streaks running back along the fuselage and the heat tinting of the metal on the nozzle. On a blanked-off plastic tube these effects always look flat, because they lack the depth of shadow. A small part with a disproportionately large visual effect.
The UH-1B is the early, Vietnam-era Huey. It has a two-blade main rotor and belongs to the first generation of Iroquois committed to combat — it is an icon of the Vietnam War, and the sound of its rotor is one of the best known sounds of the 20th century. Do not confuse it with the modern UH-1Y Venom, which has a four-blade rotor, different engines and different avionics. They are two different machines and the part is meant for a model of the early version.
The part is printed on supports — cut them off with a sharp blade and sand the mark down gently, ideally wet: resin dust is harmful and must not be inhaled. Before painting, wash the part in lukewarm water with a drop of dish soap, so that print resin residue does not spoil the adhesion of the paint. Gluing: polystyrene cement does not work, so reach for super glue (cyanoacrylate) or epoxy. Fit it rather at the end of the build, so that the thin nozzle does not crack while you handle the model, and then get straight on with the soot and the heat tinting — that is what the part is bought for.
The accessory is supplied unassembled and unpainted, without the base kit. Glue, paints and tools are not included in the package, unless stated otherwise.
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