Hammers

A hammer on a modelling bench looks illogical until the day you need one. Then it turns out that nothing else will drive a pin into timber, straighten a bent metal profile, push out a peg or planish a shape into sheet. The category offers small hammers with a brass head that leaves no marks on the workpiece, watchmaker's hammers light enough for a precise tap, and guided nail setters that keep a tiny pin from bending as it goes in. None of them is a tool you reach for every evening, but when a pin has to go into timber, nothing else does the job without splitting it.

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Model CraftPHA5180

Brass Hammer

Brass Hammer from Model Craft is a small modeling hammer with a brass head; because the metal is softer, a blow does not leave an impression on the part as readily as steel does.
In stock
13.16 €
Model CraftPPU8174B

Pen Grip Pin Pusher with 100 Black Pins

A pin pusher with a wooden handle and a hundred pins from Model Craft: a tool for pushing a pin home without a hammer.
In stock
13.96 €
Model CraftPHA1287/02

Kladívko 02

A small engineer's hammer weighing around 56 grams from Model Craft. A tool for shaping metal, riveting and fine work.
In stock
8.76 €
Model CraftPHA1287/04

Kladívko 04

The Model Craft Hammer 04 is a small modeling hammer for fine work in modeling and fine mechanics.
In stock
9.56 €
Model CraftPHA5111

Hodinářské kladívko

A Model Craft watchmaker's hammer of the Swiss pattern weighing 56 g, with a forged head and a wooden handle, for fine work.
In stock
9.16 €

Why an ordinary hammer has no place here

Mass and head material. A normal steel hammer transfers far too much energy into a small part and leaves a bruise on metal. Modelling hammers weigh tens of grams, have a short handle, and often a head softer than the workpiece — brass deforms itself first and so protects sheet, tube and the edge of a profile.

The types available

Brass hammers

The softer head spreads the blow and leaves the surface intact. They are used for dressing metal profiles, seating a pin and carefully planishing sheet on a backing plate. Work on a hard support, never on a timber bench top, so the energy stays in the workpiece.

Watchmaker's hammers

Very light with a narrow head. They suit work that needs many weak, accurately placed blows — easing a bend out gradually, or working with a tiny rivet.

Nail setters and pin sleeves

A tool that guides a pin or nail and lets you press it home. Used on timber structures, on ship models and anywhere a real nail head should be visible rather than a painted dot. The sleeve holds the pin upright so it cannot bend, and a magazine of small nails saves hunting for one in a tin.

How to use a modelling hammer

Three rules hold. The blow should be short and delivered from a low lift — energy is added by the number of taps, not by the swing. The workpiece must lie flat on a solid support, or it simply rings and nothing moves. And with a nail or pin it pays to drill the hole first: the material then does not split and the pin goes in straight, which on thin timber strip is the difference between a finished part and a crack.

What a hammer works with

  • Other aids — steel backing blocks and plates that keep the work in place.
  • Riveters — if the rivets should be pressed in rather than driven.
  • Wooden profiles — strip and sheet that nails and pins really go into.
  • Drilling and milling — the pilot hole without which a pin twists.

For a bend without a blow, a tool from bending tools and jigs is the better answer, because it forms the shape under steady pressure.

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